This year I decided to participate in the ‘Make A Wave’ fundraiser. This is an initiative that is run by the charity SurfAid, who’s main mission is to improve the health, wellbeing and resilience of families living in isolated regions connected to us through surfing.
For the month of September to raise funds for SurfAid I will be surfing everyday. All donations will support people in remote communities connected to us through surfing a hand up, rather than just giving a handout.
SurfAid specialise’s in working in very isolated villages where the maternal and child mortality rates are some of the highest in the world. Surfaid work to bring clean water, sanitation, food security and basic healthcare to families in the places we love to surf.
It’s definitely not going to be easy to surf everyday for a month. Changing weather and surf conditions, time restraints and muscle soreness but I thought why not try.
I donated $30 at the start and I also pledged for everyday I missed I would donate an extra $10.
With my goal set to raise $500 dollars which would give a family clean water for a year.
Day 1 Wednesday the 1st.
Light North winds and 0.8m SE swell.
I Surfed North Bombo on the Creative Army - ‘Seahorse’ long board with Alex on her Creative Army and Ocean Earth - ‘The General'. This was a magical start and a great size wave to ease my way into a month of surfing. There were a couple of close out waves but definitely a few gems that ran all the way to the beach if you sat in the right spot.
Racked up a nice wave count and enjoyed the beautiful sunshine for the first day of spring.
There was great company in the line up which included a fellow Surfaid companion Kate Cliff.
Day 2 Thursday the 2nd.
ESE 1m Swell and Gentle to Moderate North winds
I surfed North Bombo again with Alex and Kate. I packed the Creative Army log and the DHD - ‘Mini Twin II’, thinking conditions were going to be similar to the day before…How wrong I was! It was so much fun. There was some swell getting in and sets were roughly shoulder height. I took the Twin fin out and had a ball. It was hard work because of how fat the waves were but really rewarding once on the wave. I got a handful sick waves and the session was so much fun.
Day 3 Friday the 3rd.
ENE 1.4m Swell and light North winds
I had a rough night sleep with LG teething. With the waves from the day before still burning in my mind, I was so pumped. I dragged my self out of bed down to North Bombo. Conditions sadly wasn’t quite the same. The tide was playing havoc with the water and the line up was packed. I got one sick wave that stood out but that was about it. I surfed Channel Island’s - ‘Neckbeard 2’, as I noticed I cracked a rail on my DHD Twin from the day before. Spewing
It felt so good getting in the water.
Day 4 Saturday the 4th.
ENE 1.4m Swell and Gentle North winds,
I went and surfed a local left hand reef break on Firewires - ‘The Sunday’. My mates and I had it to our selfs and was a fun session. The wind was stronger then expected and the wave’s were pretty Suckie. I got pulled over the falls a couple of times but that’s a standard surf for me.
Day 5 Sunday the 5th.
ENE 1.2m Swell and moderate west winds
Its Father’s Day and I got spoilt by LG.
I decided to surf Firewires - 'The Sunday’ again as I wanted to see the potential this board has at Surf Beach Kiama. There was a fair few people out as it was the only place breaking. It was a bit of a wait between sets and realistically not enough to go round but was a great way to start the day. ‘The Sunday’ loved the conditions on the waves I caught. It was probably only 2-3ft swell but still fun. Lg got to play in the park at Surf beach, while dad got some waves.
Day 6 Monday the 6th
WSW Moderate winds and 2.3m SSE Swell
West winds felt stronger than forecasted. I surfed south end of Werri Beach. I finally got to surf my new Sharp Eye - ‘The Storm’ shortboard as conditions were good for it. Perfect size of waist to shoulder hight sets. It took a couple of waves to find my feet and loved it. So responsive and nice to surfboard to paddle. I’m really enjoying doing Surfaid’s make a wave. Wearing the Surfaid Rash top is the best conversation starter.
Day 7 Tuesday the 7th
SSE 2.4m Swell with light West Winds
I swear LG knows when’s there is good surf conditions because she loves to wake up heaps the night before. I surfed Werri point again on the Sharpeye. Now I have caught some waves on ‘The Storm’ Im starting to getting comfortable with it. I got a ripper of a wave straight off the bat. So I paddle back out deep again hopeful that it would come a second time but it never did. So chased a couple of smaller ones and called it a day because I had to go to work.
Day 8 Wednesday the 8th
Light West Winds with 2.1m S Swell.
In classic LG style she decided to get up every hour last night. I’m sure she knows there is good swell hanging around. I had a later surf then usual, as it was a busy morning with Alex’s work. The wind had changed to on-shore and it wasn’t very inviting. I surfed south Jones on Firewire’s - ‘The Sunday’. I’m determined to get this board dialled in. I was only out in the water for 30min and only caught 2-3 waves and came in.
Day 9 Thursday the 9th.
Light to moderate NW winds and 1.4 SE swell.
Looking at the forecast I was super pumped. I thought North Bombo would be firing,
So I grabbed my Sharpeye surfboard and headed there. As I was getting in to my wetsuit I swear the wind started blowing extra hard. Which was weird as the forecast said it would be light all day. I took off on some waves and the wind would hold me on the lip and I went over the falls multiple times. Got a couple of straight run waves and that was pretty much it.
One of the more frustrating surfs I have had but anyway there is always tomorrow.
Day 10 Friday the 10th.
Light west Winds turning to moderate south. Swell ESE 0.8m
It’s crazy how conditions can change over night. Pumping solid swell one day, log riding the next. I just went for a quick wave on Firewire’s - ‘The Sunday’ at Bombo. It’s pretty small but was good to catch up with Kate and chat about our progress so far. I picked one or two runners to the beach and called it a day.
Day 11 Saturday the 11th
NNW light winds and 1.1m SSE swell.
Beautiful morning and shaping up to be a ripper of a day with 26 degrees on the forecast.
Took the Creative Army longboard out at Bombo. Very tricky conditions with the tide being super full. The line up was packed as there was heaps of people surfing because of the nice weather. Nothing really to report on the surf but I reckon this will be a multiple surf kind of day because I got a second wave at Bombo and rode the DHD - ‘Mini Twin II’ in the afternoon. Conditions were heaps better. It was that nice to not wear a steamer and get the twin fin out again.
Day 12 Sunday the 12th
SSE 0.8 swell gentle NW winds.
Another beautiful day with the temperature forecasted to be 26 degrees. On the down side it’s a lake out there. I Surfed Creative Army’s - The General foam board at Kiama’s Surf beach to work on some nose riding. I got wave of the day which was only hip height that ran all the way to the sand. Other then that it was a ghost town. It was that flat there wasn’t even a wave in the afternoon for a double up, so we just went for a swim.
Day 13 Monday the 13th
Moderate South winds and 0.9E swell
I surfed Firewire’s - ‘The Sunday’ at South Werri before work. Now I use the term ‘surf’ loosely here as it couldn’t possibly get any flatter. Im stinging for some decent swell to come through. Fingers crossed maybe tomorrow.
Day 14 Tuesday the 14th
Moderate to strong SSW winds with 1.4M S swell.
One of the toughest days to get in the water. Blowing freezing cold south winds, tiny surf and up all night with a teething baby. That all washed away the second that first wave went over my head. I surfed South Werri on the Sharpeye’s - ‘the Storm’. I just want swell…
Day 15 Wednesday the 15th
1.7 South swell, moderate SW winds,
I surfed the Sharpeye’s - ‘The Storm’ at a choppy Kiama Surf Beach. Couple of fun wedgie waves. Nothing but lefts coming through, so I got a lot of practice on the backhand. I got a couple of nice waves but a couple of gross riding body boards stole the show. It was rainy and windy. Bring back the 26 degrees from the weekend.
Day 16 Thursday the 16th.
Light SW winds with 1.8 SSE swell.
I surfed South Jones on my Sharpeye’s - ‘The Storm'. The perfect conditions. It was good to give the new board a proper go. I’m loving this board feels so nice under the feet . Felt like I just wasn’t quite in the right spot when waves were coming through but thats surfing. My mate nailed a couple of sick waves.
Day 17 Friday the 17th.
Gentle to strong north winds, 1.5 SE swell.
Surfed a firing North Bombo on the Sharpeye’s - ‘The Storm’. A lot of Punters out today but most sitting in shallow, as the bigger sets were a bit of a wait and a bit intimidating. So I sat deep. I only got three waves in an hour session but they were awesome and on the bigger size that I have ever surfed. Stoked there is swell.
Day 18 Saturday the 18th.
Gentle to moderate north winds, 1.4 east swell.
Two days in a row surfed a firing North Bombo on the Sharpeye’s - ‘The Storms’. I have never seen that many people surfing at North Bombo before. Really made me appreciate those quite Monday morning surfs. I don’t know how people in the city can surf in those busy spots.
I got a handful of sick waves. I got so much speed on one wave and I felt so good. I got stuck trying to paddle back out because of how much water was moving. I had to go in and run up the beach to the rip to get out. Classic Kook
Day 19 Sunday the 19th
1m ESE swell with WNW gentle winds
What a fun surf! I was given a 6ft foamy from Radica soft-board - ‘The Swallow’ to review. The tide was full at North Bombo and a lot of shortboard riders were struggling. On a session that would have been a ride off, I had a field day on the Foamie. And being that smaller size board I could still throw it around and have fun. Even got a couple of hang fives which is sick.
Day 20 Monday the 20th
0.6 ESE swell and gentle NNW winds
Not even a log wave around so I grabbed my SUP and paddled up and down Bombo beach in the beautiful sunshine. I don’t know if this counts as a surf but I’m claiming it, fingers crossed for some waves soon.
Day 21 Tuesday the 21st
Swell started at 0.8s and ended day with 2.8m Strong South winds… top 68.5k southern winds.
I went looking for a wave and couldn’t find one breaking before work.
I would have taken the SUP out like the day before but I would have been blown to New Zealand.
So I decide to hit the concrete on my Globe skateboard cruiser.
I’ll be donating 10 dollars tonight due to the lack of waves.
Day 22 Wednesday the 22nd
Moderate SW winds 2m south swell.
I surfed Kiama Surf beach after work because of time restraints. Blowing onshore and it was super choppy. Im not going to lie, It was more a swim then anything but got one or two on the Radicas Foamie as I chipped the nose of my Sharpeye’s - ‘Storm’ and it was getting repaired. Conditions look better for tomorrow.
Day 23 Thursday the 23rd
South swell 1.1m WNW light winds.
We had a foamy family day at North Bombo. It was a beautiful day to get in the water.
Alex rode the Creative Army - ‘The General’ foam board and I was on Radica’s - ‘Swallow tail’ board again. Water was beautiful and a great way to start the day before work.
Day 24 Friday the 24th
SSE 0.7 swell with moderate NW winds.
Yeah looked at the surf report casual 0.7 grabbed the Firewire’s - ‘The Sunday’ and The Creative Army log. Got to North Bombo it was pumping . Really tested me in the big swell ridding a mid length. It was so much fun. The Twin fin in the bigger sized wave’s skated along and I had a blast. I also attempted to get a couple of little barrels and got pumped. I will be feeling it tomorrow.
Day 25 Saturday the 25th.
Wsw moderate winds with 0.6-2m swell.
I surfed South Bombo on my DHD - ‘Mini Twin’. It was really backwash and the sandbar snuck up on me really quick. Got one right hander that ran all the way to the beach. The rest closed out. It pissed down with rain during the session which made it feel so relaxing.
Day 26 Sunday the 26th
S moderate winds with 2m South Swell.
I had a sleepless night with LG teething. The wind was blow a cold wind so I surfed South Jones on my Sharpeye’s - ‘Storm’. Nothing spectacular but nice to get in the water.
Day 27 Monday the 27th
NE winds moderate to strong winds, 1.3 south swell
Definitely the hardest day I have surfed this month because it was one of the most rippiest surfers I have ever had. So much effort for very little reward .
I surfed the Sharpeye’s - ‘Storm’. I felt useless out there today. Hopefully better conditions tomorrow.
Day 28 Tuesday the 28th
North winds light to moderate with sse swell 1.1m
Slow session at North Bombo on the DHD - ‘Mini Twin II’. Got to play in the sand with LG before paddling out which was fun. I pretty much just meditated behind the breaking waves and I caught a couple of straight ones.
Day 29 Wednesday the 29th
ENE 1m Swell with NNE Moderate Winds
It’s LG’s first birthday so we didn’t go straight to the beach. We celebrated with some pancakes and opening of some presents. After we went to North Bombo for a quick tag-team surf. I was on Radica’s - ‘The Swallow’ and Alex was on her Creative Army - ‘The General’. LG was loving playing in the sand on her birthday.
Day 30 Thursday the 30th
Gentle North Winds with 1m ENE Swell
I did it…Not the best waves to finish the month but I got wet at North Bombo on ‘The Sunday’ by FireWire. It was so much fun surfing a month straight and enjoyed doing my first ever charity drive.
Thanks so much, to Surfaid for having me and thanks to everyone who donated. In total I raised $1050 which is amazing.
Can’t wait to do it all again next year.